We heard on the radio that Christchurch suffered 2 aftershocks today. On the Richter scale they were 5.5 and 6.0, respectively, according to the report we heard. The intensity of the second shock was almost at the level of the quake in February and even more buildings now will be deemed irreparable and torn down. Pray for the people of Christchurch. They are suffering so intensely. Pray for New Zealand and her resilient people who have even more work ahead.
We stayed in Christchurch last Friday and I was uncomfortably aware that we were on the first floor of a two-storey building. Crushable. All night I was dreaming that there was a quake ... and there was none that night. Imagine living there full time and the anxiety that must bring.
God bless them all.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Friday, June 10, 2011
NZ This Time and Next Time--Barry
Writing this from the airport lounge in Christchurch where I am feeling some melancholy about leaving New Zealand. It is, after all, a place that Marilyn and I have talked about visiting "some day" for 30+ years and now--a little sadly--we will shortly need to speak of this visit in the past tense. But we are already talking about a return visit "some day" in the future.
This visit did turn out to be the "Grand Tour" of the North and South Islands as we had expected. Over the 22 days we traveled over 3800km (mainly on the South Island), stayed at 10 B&Bs and several motels (all fine or excellent), and took that great ferry ride from Wellington to Picton on a gorgeous day with calm waters in the Cook Strait, thankfully.
Three weeks allowed us to venture out beyond the standard first-visit itinerary of Auckland, Rotorua, Wellington, Queenstown, Milford Sound, etc. to visit places like the Coromandel peninsula on the North Island and the Catlins at the far south of the South Island. In the Coromandel we stretched out and napped on a fantastic deserted beach on a sunny day at Opito Bay. In the Catlins we crept up on a formidable sea lion also on an empty beach at Cannibal Bay. I think these less-visited places were the highlights of a journey here that had few low points.
Whether at a well-known spot or not, we met very friendly people who made us feel right at home.
We can begin dreaming about Next Time in New Zealand when we will probably pick two or three spots and then settle in each for a longer period. This Time was well worth the 30 year wait. Farewell.
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| Scotland? No. Taken on the Otago Peninsula near Dunedin. Another beautiful day. |
This visit did turn out to be the "Grand Tour" of the North and South Islands as we had expected. Over the 22 days we traveled over 3800km (mainly on the South Island), stayed at 10 B&Bs and several motels (all fine or excellent), and took that great ferry ride from Wellington to Picton on a gorgeous day with calm waters in the Cook Strait, thankfully.
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| Along Main St. in Owaka in the Catlins across from our B&B. Coldest morning of the trip at -2C. |
Three weeks allowed us to venture out beyond the standard first-visit itinerary of Auckland, Rotorua, Wellington, Queenstown, Milford Sound, etc. to visit places like the Coromandel peninsula on the North Island and the Catlins at the far south of the South Island. In the Coromandel we stretched out and napped on a fantastic deserted beach on a sunny day at Opito Bay. In the Catlins we crept up on a formidable sea lion also on an empty beach at Cannibal Bay. I think these less-visited places were the highlights of a journey here that had few low points.
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| From the coach ride to Milford Sound |
Whether at a well-known spot or not, we met very friendly people who made us feel right at home.
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| Two happy NZ tourists. |
We can begin dreaming about Next Time in New Zealand when we will probably pick two or three spots and then settle in each for a longer period. This Time was well worth the 30 year wait. Farewell.
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| The Southern Alps seen from Fox Glacier. That's Mt Cook on the right. |
Leaving with Sadness But Not Regrets
Today is our last full day in New Zealand and we fly out tomorrow from Christchurch on our way to Sydney, Australia. Looking forward to flying Air New Zealand again as their safety video features Richard Simmons in an outrageous send up of the usual safety spiel. He looks older and like he's been around the block a little, which I suppose he has. But nonetheless the video gets your attention...
Over the past few days we've traveled to the place where most first-time New Zealand visitors end up--Milford Sound. It's in the fjord country on the SW coast of New Zealand and is indeed gorgeous. That area is also covered with rain forest, and so--duh--it gets a lot of rain. That's why the weather looks a little lousy. Oh well. Highlight was the dolphin pod that played alongside the boat and twice we saw one breach and jump--it looked like Joy incarnate. What a treat. We also saw some seals lounging about.
The day involved a bus ride of 4 hours' duration from Queenstown to Milford Sound, then a cruise for 2 hours, and then the ride home. Quite a day out, and well worth not driving ourselves.
After our short sojourn in Fiordlands we headed south to the area known as the Catlins--this is gently rolling farmland and spectacular coastland in the SE corner of New Zealand.
It isn't well developed at all, and we had trouble finding lodging and restaurants--but it was really worth the trip. Very isolated but with gentle scenery that was absolutely lovely.
This area is off the beaten track for first-time visitors and we were so happy to have found it.
One spectacular thing we sighted was a huge sea lion lounging at the beach at Cannibal Bay. This was named "Cannibal" because a 19th Century geologist found human bones on the beach there. Anyway the sea lion was very cool, especially how he flopped back into the water. Clumsy on land, incredibly graceful in the water.
One bit of wildlife we didn't see here were penguins. There are 2 varieties who nest in NZ on this coast but we just didn't hit it right. That's a good reason to return one day, God willing.
Today we finished in Christchurch, where the most recent large earthquake happened this past February. We walked downtown and there is still a very large area cordoned off because it is still unsafe and also because clearing and rebuilding are still happening there. It was sad and melancholy and deserted, and these perceptions were only enforced by the rain we had today. Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island, and it's a shame to see it crippled. May it rise again like a phoenix!
Barry and I are wondering if we may feel a tremor here before we leave in the morning. Just a few days ago they experienced a major aftershock that sent fear into a lot of guts. Apparently people have frayed nerves and short tempers due to living with the stress of the potentiality of another big one. Kids are regressing in their development ... and the forecast for more shaking in the future is strong. Do keep them all in your prayers. Our motel tonight is just outside downtown, and it did not sustain damage in the last big quake.
Last but not least, a shout out for Waitiri Creek Pinot Gris 2009 ... an absolutely smooth and delicious white ... hope we can find it in the States.
Over and out from M.
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| Mirror Lake, on the way to Milford Sound. |
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| Lovely scene from Milford Sound |
After our short sojourn in Fiordlands we headed south to the area known as the Catlins--this is gently rolling farmland and spectacular coastland in the SE corner of New Zealand.
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| Sobering to think we were closer to the South Pole than to the Equator ... still the Flat Whites were terrific! This was taken near the southernmost point on the South Island. |
It isn't well developed at all, and we had trouble finding lodging and restaurants--but it was really worth the trip. Very isolated but with gentle scenery that was absolutely lovely.
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| Coastal scenery in the Catlins near a place called Jack's Blowhole, named for a Maori chief. A blowhole is a place where the sea enters through a long cave and reverberates a good deal inland in spectacular fashion. This blowhole was 200 m from the coastline, |
This area is off the beaten track for first-time visitors and we were so happy to have found it.
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| Taken on our way back to Owaka in the Catlins after an unsuccessful attempt to see yellow-eyed penguins coming in for the night. We were much more successful in finding a wonderful sunset. |
One spectacular thing we sighted was a huge sea lion lounging at the beach at Cannibal Bay. This was named "Cannibal" because a 19th Century geologist found human bones on the beach there. Anyway the sea lion was very cool, especially how he flopped back into the water. Clumsy on land, incredibly graceful in the water.
One bit of wildlife we didn't see here were penguins. There are 2 varieties who nest in NZ on this coast but we just didn't hit it right. That's a good reason to return one day, God willing.
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| Big old sea lion standing guard on the beach at Cannibal Bay. The indentation in the beach where he spent the night was pretty icky looking when we found him in the morning... |
Today we finished in Christchurch, where the most recent large earthquake happened this past February. We walked downtown and there is still a very large area cordoned off because it is still unsafe and also because clearing and rebuilding are still happening there. It was sad and melancholy and deserted, and these perceptions were only enforced by the rain we had today. Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island, and it's a shame to see it crippled. May it rise again like a phoenix!
Barry and I are wondering if we may feel a tremor here before we leave in the morning. Just a few days ago they experienced a major aftershock that sent fear into a lot of guts. Apparently people have frayed nerves and short tempers due to living with the stress of the potentiality of another big one. Kids are regressing in their development ... and the forecast for more shaking in the future is strong. Do keep them all in your prayers. Our motel tonight is just outside downtown, and it did not sustain damage in the last big quake.
Last but not least, a shout out for Waitiri Creek Pinot Gris 2009 ... an absolutely smooth and delicious white ... hope we can find it in the States.
Over and out from M.
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| Looking through the fencing that separates the reconstruction area from the rest of downtown in Christchurch. We are looking at the Cathedral in the distance, whose tower toppled during the quake. Luckily no one was killed by the cathedral tower collapse. All 20 people got out safely. |
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Two Churches, Vastly Different
We attended worship this morning at St Peter's in Queenstown, NZ, nestled in the heart of the mountainous area of the South Island. It was well attended, with lots of locals from NZ as well as people from France, England, and of course the US.
This afternoon we drove out in the country to the Otago Wine District, known for their good reds, as well as other wines. We lunched in the restaurant and tasting room of Waitiri Creek Winery, which was in a little Presbyterian Church that closed down in the 1950's and was moved to the spot.
We had a good wood-fired pizza (cooked outside on an old fashioned barbeque installation) and pumpkin soup (in NZ everything "squash" is called "pumpkin). Followed it all with a nice walk and a nice nap.
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| St Peter's Church in Queenstown |
This afternoon we drove out in the country to the Otago Wine District, known for their good reds, as well as other wines. We lunched in the restaurant and tasting room of Waitiri Creek Winery, which was in a little Presbyterian Church that closed down in the 1950's and was moved to the spot.
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| Winery Restaurant at Waitiri Creek Winery |
We had a good wood-fired pizza (cooked outside on an old fashioned barbeque installation) and pumpkin soup (in NZ everything "squash" is called "pumpkin). Followed it all with a nice walk and a nice nap.
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| Inside the Restaurant, looking out |
Saturday, June 4, 2011
What One Can Do When Stuck in Car a Lot
Courtesy of "Instant Poetry" app while en route to Queenstown:
frond wrapped tight
green coils hiding the future
opening too slowly
do I want the secret?
The app actually looks like the white-on-black rectangular magnetic words you get in poetry games that are marketed to be played on the fronts of refrigerators. Alas, the quality of the emailed final version will not allow publication as is. Please use imagination!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Two Terrific Days and a Stinky Night
Two terrific days here--yesterday Barry and I took a "water taxi" for tourists up to Abel Tasman National Park on the Northwest Coast of New Zealand. After seeing seals nursing their pups from our post on the boat, the pilot let us off on a beach and we took this great trail over to the pick-up point.
We walked through rain forest and along beaches for about 5 or 6 miles. The best part was having to cross over a tidal flat (at low tide!) and nonetheless walking through a good quarter mile of mud, shells, and the occasional stream. It was really fun, and it tuckered us out really well.
Today we drove west and south to the West Coast of the Southern Island to Punakaiki National Park. On the way we stopped outside Murchison at a deep chasm with a rushing stream below. That's where we walked the scariest Swing Bridge ever constructed (IMHO) and we rode back across the stream on a zip line. It was a blast. But the Swing Bridge was not a blast as it played off my fears of unprotected heights and rushing deep water ... wow I was glad to get across that one. One step at a time. Good sermon illustration.
At Punakaiki Park there are these very cool towers of limestone right on the beach, cutely named "Pancake Rocks." We had a couple really nice shorter walks here.
And the place we are staying has its own grotto (actually a damp recess in a bank on a hill). This grotto is very cool because when you go there at night it's lit up by glowworms--looks like stars on the side of the bank. I had never seen this kind of thing before and it was amazing. Must have been 50 or so little points of light from these things--apparently they manufacture a phosphorescent chemical to attract insects to eat.
After we saw the stars in the earth we took another look at the Milky Way; it's so gorgeous here, far away from the lights of a town. Oh we also saw a kiwi (bird, not NZ citizen, fuzzy fruit, or dollar) scurry across the road in front of the car. Nice!
And the stinky night? An intestinal bug made a nocturnal visit...but all well now, thank God.
Love to all and prayers for the tornado victims in Massachusetts.
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| New Zealand Harbour Seal taking life easy |
We walked through rain forest and along beaches for about 5 or 6 miles. The best part was having to cross over a tidal flat (at low tide!) and nonetheless walking through a good quarter mile of mud, shells, and the occasional stream. It was really fun, and it tuckered us out really well.
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| Barry getting spa mud treatment |
Today we drove west and south to the West Coast of the Southern Island to Punakaiki National Park. On the way we stopped outside Murchison at a deep chasm with a rushing stream below. That's where we walked the scariest Swing Bridge ever constructed (IMHO) and we rode back across the stream on a zip line. It was a blast. But the Swing Bridge was not a blast as it played off my fears of unprotected heights and rushing deep water ... wow I was glad to get across that one. One step at a time. Good sermon illustration.
At Punakaiki Park there are these very cool towers of limestone right on the beach, cutely named "Pancake Rocks." We had a couple really nice shorter walks here.
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| Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki National Park |
After we saw the stars in the earth we took another look at the Milky Way; it's so gorgeous here, far away from the lights of a town. Oh we also saw a kiwi (bird, not NZ citizen, fuzzy fruit, or dollar) scurry across the road in front of the car. Nice!
And the stinky night? An intestinal bug made a nocturnal visit...but all well now, thank God.
Love to all and prayers for the tornado victims in Massachusetts.
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Getting Around--Barry
Traveling in New Zealand in the off season we've kept an open itinerary and made reservations a day or so ahead as we've gone along. I pitched the guide book long ago and have been using Trip Advisor to select B&Bs and have had no problem at all with bookings, with the exception of Wellington last weekend when we had to settle for a hotel. (Trip Advisor has become really important in the B&B business.) All the places we've stayed have wifi internet access, allowing me to use Skype for local calls at 2-3 cents per minute. (Pay Verizon $1.99 a minute for roaming in NZ--no way!)
The seven B&Bs we've stayed in thus far here have been very good, in several instances outstanding. The owners have been wonderful to talk to. They also provide great advice for touring and local restaurants, so again we've been able to dispense with the travel books.
Continuing on the theme that New Zealand is an exceptionally easy place to travel in, I've found that even the left-hand driving is easier here than the UK or Ireland, mainly because the roads are wider, with little traffic. In the hills and mountains the roads are quite winding, so I think 300km is the most you want to tackle in a day, while allowing some time to get out of the car to sightsee or walk.
It's very off-season here, akin to late November back home. Traveling off-season often means settling for less than favorable weather, but that has been far from the case here (so far). With sunny days and high temperatures in the mid 60s, it's been just about perfect here.
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| Resting after a day's journey at City Lights B&B overlooking Rotorua--now where will we stay tomorrow night in Taupo? |
The seven B&Bs we've stayed in thus far here have been very good, in several instances outstanding. The owners have been wonderful to talk to. They also provide great advice for touring and local restaurants, so again we've been able to dispense with the travel books.
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| Goat Island Marine Reserve an hour north of Auckland--a really good recommendation from Beth at 23 Hepburn B&B, Auckland |
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| Opito Beach on Coromandel peninsula east of Auckland--there was no one else there when we visited--great recommendation from Robin at Jacaranda Lodge, outside Coromandel town (where we saw the Southern Cross the night before) |
Continuing on the theme that New Zealand is an exceptionally easy place to travel in, I've found that even the left-hand driving is easier here than the UK or Ireland, mainly because the roads are wider, with little traffic. In the hills and mountains the roads are quite winding, so I think 300km is the most you want to tackle in a day, while allowing some time to get out of the car to sightsee or walk.
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| No, I was not driving when I took this picture--heading to Rotorua |
It's very off-season here, akin to late November back home. Traveling off-season often means settling for less than favorable weather, but that has been far from the case here (so far). With sunny days and high temperatures in the mid 60s, it's been just about perfect here.
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| Sheep in the vineyards in Marlborough wine region of South Island near Blenheim |
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| Sunset a day later looking east from Split Apple Lodge, Kaiteriteri, west of Nelson |
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